TOM COLICCHIO came out of the kitchen at Colicchio & Sons the other night wearing a short-sleeved dishwasher’s shirt and a white apron. His black clogs were scuffed beneath his jeans, and there were burn marks on his forearms. He appeared tired, his angry eyes more sunken than usual.He had been in Los Angeles earlier in the week, running a big dinner for the Oscars. He had been down in Dallas before that, for a charity dinner for, among others, ..... read more from the NYTIMES Dining.

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